Photosplaining 16:9

My recent exhibition 16:9 at Mercury 20 Gallery in Oakland featured 18 untitled pixelated images, selected from a series of 24 (the total series published in the hardback catalog to the exhibition, available for purchase at www.chriskomater.com/catalogs). I provided no other information or guidance. I wanted my viewers to see whatever they wanted, to have an unmitigated visual experience. “What do you see?” I’d ask. They’d speculate half-heartedly, and then immediately ask, “Am I right? What am I really seeing?” I’d reply again with the question, “Well, what do you see?” My viewers became progressively more and more annoyed with me, like I was keeping meaning from them. While I do admit to being guided by some conscious exasperation with my audience’s general lack of engagement over the years, and perhaps even a mild feeling of contempt, I wanted this project not to be about me, but about the viewer. If they didn’t see anything, tough cookies, it’s not my fault that they have no imagination. But, as so many ended up just being frustrated, I’d like to tell you about the source imagery and what some of these images mean to me.

Like all of the images in the series, the source image for the photo above is taken from the film, “Vertigo.” Specifically, it’s of Madeleine (Kim Novack) standing by the San Francisco Bay’s edge at Fort Point under the Golden Gate Bridge, moments before attempting suicide by plunging into the icy depths.

Scotty (Jimmy Stewart) suffers from vertigo, and has been hired by an old friend, Gavin Elster, to follow his wife, Madeleine, around San Francisco.  Gavin’s afraid that his wife may kill herself.  She’s become obsessed with an ancestor, Carlotta Valdez, who killed herself when she was Madeleine’s age, and whose portrait hangs in the Legion of Honor, “Portrait of Carlotta,” which she visits in her wanderings. Madeleine, as we find out later, is actually a tawdry redhead named Judy who is hired by Gavin to pretend to be his wife, so that he could later take advantage of Scotty’s fear of heights in order to kill his actual wife. As Scotty follows Madeleine around San Francisco, he begins to develop feelings for her as he pieces together her story—or rather, the story that he’s been led to believe.

The moment captured in this image is the moment between Scotty’s growing fascination with Madeleine—as an observer—and his direct contact with her, when he breaks the boundary between the observer and the observed.  He becomes her rescuer, jumping in the Bay after her, and the two eventually make love, further complicating what their relationship was supposed to have been, planned of course by Gavin Elster, and what it becomes.

Much later, after he sees—or thinks he sees—Madeleine fall to her death from the tower at the Mission San Juan Bautista, and, following a nervous breakdown, he wanders the same streets, grief-stricken. He eventually bumps into Judy, the actual woman who disguised herself as Madeleine, and follows her to her apartment. Despite her protestations, he pushes until she gives in to him. He attempts to transform her into the form of his dead lover by buying her the same clothes as Madeleine and bleaching her hair the same color—an attempted illusion complicated by the fact that the illusion is actually the real thing… which was an illusion in the first place!

The still captures that wonderful moment before possibility and longing and desire and illusion give way to actual experience. The themes of reality and obsession in the film, of deception, duplicity, of characters seeing what they want to see or what they’re led to believe, are themes that reflect what I wanted to do with my 16:9 project. Do we see what we want to see, or do we see only what people tell us to see? Remember Plato’s cave allegory? Prisoners in a cave are chained to a wall and see only shadows cast on the wall, which they take as reality, but which are only representations of the real world.  The allegory deals with how we perceive reality and whether there are higher truths.

The source image for this pixelated work from the series is of Midge (Barbara bel Geddes), in a red sweater with her hands up in the air, grabbing the back of her head and exclaiming “Marjorie Wood… stupid! stupid! stupid!”  It’s the only time you hear the character’s full name, the name I gave to my online gallery, Marjorie Wood Gallery, which I ran in the early aughts.

Just prior to the moment captured in this still, Scotty tells Midge of being hired by Elster to follow his wife.  Midge, a graphic artist living on Russian Hill (where I went to college), sensing that Scotty has become obsessed with Madeleine, and more than a little jealous, paints a portrait of herself as Carlotta Valdez, in a bid for his attention.  When he sees the painting, he gets upset and leaves the apartment, and here we see Midge in the scene that the still is from.  After the raised-hands-stupid-stupid bit, you get only a glance at the painting that she’s made. From a vantage point behind the canvas, we see her in front of the painting as the scene ends and she makes 2 strokes with her brush, one to the left, and one to the right, as if painting a mustache on her portrait. We don’t see the mustache, we just see Midge’s gesture. I think of Marcel Duchamp painting a mustache on the Mona Lisa and signing it as that of his female counterpart, Rrose Sélavy.

The still captures an excruciatingly painful moment for Midge, who has tried and failed to express through her art what she can’t with words.  My best friend Chris, my former lover, and I, who know way too much about this film and each other, have argued for years about which of us is Midge, and which is Scotty, each seeing what we want in her character.  

There’s just so much of me in that film, so much that has driven and fed my art over the years.  My project is an homage of sorts. Each still has tremendous personal meaning and significance, but only to me.  I’ve resisted telling people about the source images because I wanted the work to be about them, about what they think they see, and not what I’m telling them they’re supposed to be seeing.  There are no “higher truths” in the work, only my relation to shadows cast on the silver screen, and the hope that my viewer may make something interesting of the pixels that I’ve arranged for them to ponder.

But am I channeling Hitchcock, the director, my co-creator of these images, or am I channeling Gavin Elster, taking advantage of my viewer’s vulnerabilities and imagination?  Am I showing you a shadow of reality, or reality itself?

Kathleen King on 16:9 (07)

Below are a few words that Kathleen King wrote about my current show, 16:9, on view at Mercury 20 in Oakland, through September 3:

I bought this photograph titled 16:9 (07) from local artist Chris Komater. By (de)constructing traditional photographic images into colored squares on a 16 x 9 grid, Chris asks us to think about what we see.

In a funny way Chris is making a mysterious and even romantic image here. Part of the fun of this work is trying to decipher the image.

My brain saw the Golden Gate Bridge in this grouping of colored squares. Specifically, the view from the parking lot at Fort Point, which is the location of a famous scene in Alfred Hitchcock’s Vertigo, a Hollywood movie set in San Francisco. Aptly, that movie explores truth and fiction in what we see and believe about what we are seeing. It also reveals how feeling is transmitted through vision and can be embodied in a person or place. I have so many feelings about the passage of time, my life and love in this place, San Francisco. My whole life kind of flashes before me when I see this photo.

On top of that, the digital pixilation technique foregrounds the changes that the last decades have brought to the “cool grey city of love,” especially the exodus of artists, musicians, lovers, seekers. There is a continuous narrative that history, the land and the Bay waters hold that can be heard by those who listen. Data seems to be replacing narrative for now but the wind still sings the message if current algorithm creators attune.

So glad to have this beautiful piece in my collection. This is the last weekend to view Chris’s marvelous show 16:9.

— Kathleen King

April, New Work & Meaninglessness

It’s April already. Soon it will be fall again… and then Christmas… and then, soon enough, I’ll be 60… and then dead. My mid-50’s are defined by a heightened awareness of the swift and ceaseless passage of days, the earth seemingly spinning on its access and revolving around the sun faster and faster and faster as I cling to my little corner of it, trying not to be flung into the abyss just yet. Can someone just make it stop?

I’m working on a new project. It’s tentatively called 16:9. The images will be small, maybe postcard size, the resolution 16 x 9 pixels. 16:9 is the aspect ration of widescreen cinema, the medium that has inspired most of my work and framed how I experience the world. The content–or lack of it–is inspired by a renewed affinity with the Dadaists, the meaning of their work derived from its meaninglessness, that meaninglessness shaped by the collapse of their world and the horrors of World War 1. With Republican apathy obstructing any meaningful attempt to prevent the world from overheating and overpopulating, people believing the most preposterous of lies, Putin invading Ukraine and the rest of the world scared to do anything lest their gasoline prices rise, my own days numbered… I’m finding it hard to find meaning in any of this. So I’m making some photos about nothing for my 9th solo show in as many years at Mercury 20 Gallery in Oakland.

Over these 9 years I’ve spent enough money on printing and framing to buy a small house on an island in the Cyclades, where, frankly, I think I’d rather be right now, tan, fat and bald and spitting watermelon seeds into the Aegean with my Greek fisherman husband. I’ve sold a few pieces over these years, but instead of my island retreat, I have a basement filled wall to wall and floor to ceiling with the beautifully framed output from this intensely productive period. So, out of necessity, out of a lack of funds and further storage space, out of despair, out of diminishing faith in my fellow humans, I find solace in meaninglessness.

I consider this body of work to be a gift of sorts to my audience. Let’s forget about my desires, my anxieties, me trying to articulate something of my private experience through a universal visual language. You won’t have to try to figure out what I’m trying to say–whatever you want this work to be about will be what it’s about. Whatever you see is what you’ll be seeing. And whatever will be will be. Que sera, sera.

untitled 01, from 16:9 series

Ends

Detail of Geophagia, 2021, by Andy Goldsworthy

Ralph and I went to visit For-Site’s Lands End installation at San Francisco’s Cliff House on Friday. The Cliff House, perched on a bluff at Lands End, with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and Seal Rocks, for years was the restaurant that one brought one’s parents to when they visited town, but has been sitting vacant since the end of 2020. The For-Site Foundation has taken up temporary residence with a series of site-specific art installations decoratively aestheticizing the human impact on climate and what’s left of the natural world.

Installation view of migration (empire), 2008, by Doug Aitken

All of the work is beautiful and beautifully installed, each piece framed by the architecture and views. Doug Aitken’s single channel video installation, migration (empire), features various examples of migratory wildlife filmed inside vacant hotel rooms. The video allegorically and poetically references humankind’s steady seizure of and intrusion into the animal kingdom.

Andy Goldsworthy coated a single long table and adjacent dining booth tabletops with a thick layer of white clay. As the show has progressed, the white clay tablecloths have cracked, like dry riverbeds, or overbaked meringues, our current drought conditions in California rendered as conceptual frosting.

Also… well, there are many other wondrous works of art, and it’s an entertaining show, well worth seeing, but with West Virginia Senator Joe Manchin now determining the destiny of our planet’s climate, it seems hopelessly pointless. Antarctica is melting.

Inside the Camera Obscura, Ocean Beach, San Francisco

Ralph and I met years ago, at a party at my friend Sarah’s house. I was immediately attracted to him. He’s an artist, a creator of interior spaces that blend whimsy and sophistication. His own home is a micro-museum of homoerotic imagery, photography, and tableaux of taxidermied animals, figurines, and other found objects, arranged in such dense and numerous sculptural installations as to make it almost impossible to take it all in during any one visit. I’ve never experienced such an environment, so much meaning and invention packed into 800 square feet.

Following a few exploratory romantic excursions, I told him a few days ago that I’m not feeling up to dating. I frankly don’t know exactly why–and did you ever think you’d hear me say that? He’s sexy and stylish, a fuzzy ex-New Yorker, engaged with film, art and design, just the kind of guy who ticks off a lot of my boxes.

Over the course of 20 years, my friendship with BC has evolved into a comfortable and loving companionship that has weathered exchanges with outside suitors, lovers, and wanna-be boyfriends. During the pandemic we’ve spent days in our respective homes, and nights together, me snuggled with our pups d’Auggie and Zoobie in his guest room on Twin Peaks. My frantic multi-decade search for a perfect companion has yielded only frustration, yet somehow, without trying, and despite years of resistance, a structure of domestic harmony has settled upon me, despite myself. At 56 I can’t imagine trying to know someone as deeply as I know BC, or, indeed, to give that up. In The Odyssey, Homer describes an ideal of like-mindedness in marriage, homophrosyne. After so many years of wandering, my Penelope awaits on Twin Peaks?

Or Midge. Once BC and I had an argument after watching Hitchcock’s Vertigo. I remarked how like Midge I thought I was. He scoffed, completely perplexed, insisting that HE was Midge, and that I was Scottie. Midge was an artist, lived near the Art Institute, bubbly, cute, sassy, driving a sporty little car. I was totally Midge. Midge and Scottie had dated, in the past, just like us. Years later I asked BC why he hadn’t seriously dated anyone else since our breakup. “You know there’s only one man in the world for me, Johnny-o,” he replied, quoting Midge. In the film, Scottie frantically chases after an illusion, while Midge watches, helpless, eventually fading into the shadows as Scottie struggles to give form to his obsession. I’m Scottie, for sure, and if BC’s not my Penelope, he’s definitely my Midge.

So it seems that my Dating Game has wrapped up another season. Like an enduring British sitcom, maybe there will be future episodes, rehashing old themes with half laughs and treacly sentiment. Or maybe I’ve jumped over the shark too many times already?

New Work: Allegory of Inclination

I just dropped off the last of the photographs to be framed for my next solo show, opening in October at the Mercury 20 Gallery in Oakland. It’s my 8th solo show there in as many years.

The project is called Allegory of Inclination, the title borrowed, well, outright stolen from Artemisia Gentileschi. Artemisia was commissioned by the great nephew of Michelangelo to paint a picture celebrating his genius at the Casa Buonarroti in Florence. Artemisia’s painting is an allegorical celebration of inborn artistic ability–the inclination towards genius.

My project gathers together various themes that have permeated my output for the last several decades, to create an allegory of aesthetic and sexual desire, the frustration of our voyeuristic impulses, and the quest to find beauty in the mundane and overlooked.

The imagery includes curtains, which both hide and reveal, flowers, furry bodies and big bellies. The picture above is the first image in the series, a photograph of a fragment of a painting by Caravaggio. Caravaggio used paint, shadow and fabric to theatrically frame and isolate his visual narratives and subject matter. Here I’m borrowing a curtain from one of his paintings to introduce the allegorical narrative to follow.

I’ll post more previews from the show as we get closer to October.

On to Syros

Because of the Seamen’s Union strike, Daniel and I were left with only one day to explore the island of Syros, so we weren’t able to wander much further than the main port and the adjacent medieval hilltop town of Ano Syros.  Ermoupoli is an elegant city, the capital of the Cyclades, formerly Greece’s main port, named after Hermes, the messenger of the gods (and the protector of travelers).  We stayed in the Vaporia, a seaside neighborhood of neo-classical captains’ mansions, marble balconies, and winding paths.  The mansions are painted in delicate shades of pink and yellow, yet the churches and interior public spaces burst with vibrant colors and patterns.

The town hall is a neoclassical building designed by Ernst Ziller, who designed many such elegant royal and municipal buildings in late 19th/early 20th century Greece.  There is a remarkably uninteresting archeological museum located in the backside of the town hall.  A sculptural fragment from Astypalaia, in the Dodecanese, of some rather large testicles was the only object to catch my eye. Just across the square from the town hall is one of the most delightful restaurants in town, the Avant Garden.  The setting is spectacular, a lovely courtyard garden open to the sky.  The staff is friendly and welcoming, and very enthusiastic about the food, which is inventive and flavorful, classic Greek dishes reimagined as modern plates highlighting local ingredients.

At the Church of the Dormition of the Virgin, barely visible beyond the very reflective protective glass, I stumbled on an early El Greco, painted before he was El Greco.  He was in his early 20s when he painted it.  His signature, clearly painted on the bottom of the painting, reads Domenicos Theotocopoulos, maker, which even I could read, yet was only noticed in 1983.  Everybody looks at the pictures.

Daniel and I hiked up to Ano (upper, very very upper) Syros, a medieval hilltop town adjacent to Ermoupoli with winding narrow streets and breathtaking views.  Ano Syros is inhabited by Catholic Greeks, who settled here after the 4th Crusade.  All of the churches here and around the island are delightful and lavishly decorated colorful light-filled spaces.

Back to Athens for Daniel’s last night, and then on to Nea Koroni… stay tuned!

A Return to Athens: Graffiti in Psyri, Bronzes in Piraeus

I spent the last few weeks of April in Greece, visiting old friends in Athens, exploring the island of Syros with my friend Daniel, and a week with the adorable Panos and his mom in their village in Messenia.

Daniel and I stayed in Psyri, in a fairly fabulous AirBnB overlooking the Acropolis.  Psyri, just north of the Monastiraki metro station, was settled in the 19th century by immigrants from Naxos.  The notorious inhabitants of the area became known as the kontsavakides – pimps and criminals with drooping mustaches, pointy boots, and weapons concealed in their wide sashes.  In the 20th century, Psiri became a working class neighborhood with leather workshops and tiny factories, which in the 1990s paved the way to the scene today: trendy nightclubs, bars, galleries, cafes and restaurants, and fabulous graffiti.  Lord Byron penned his “Maid of Athens” poem here:

Oh maid of Athens, ere I part
Give oh give me back my heart

Unable to get to Syros because of the Seaman’s Union strike, we had an extra day in Athens, so took the metro to the port of Piraeus and trekked over to the archaeological museum there. Hardly any visitors and a whopping four life-sized archaic and classical bronzes. This museum gets few visitors, and their collection is dynamite. There’s an ancient amphitheater out back, as well as fascinating funerary sculpture.

On to Syros…

Study for a Series: Love

A solo show of my recent low-resolution photographs opens today, at Mercury 20 Gallery in Oakland, my fifth solo show there. The work is inspired by Edvard Munch’s 1893 exhibition, Study for a Series: Love. Munch exhibited six paintings that explored “the struggle between man and woman called love.” This was the genesis of a larger cycle, The Frieze of Life, a Poem about Life, Love and Death that explored the stages of life, the hopelessness of love, anxiety, infidelity, jealousy and death.

Munch’s expressive and intensely personal treatment of psychological turmoil over a century ago finds in our era an equivalent in the selfie and Facebook, where intimate moments are documented, made public, discussed and analyzed. The six photos in my series are culled from my recent online dating experiences, but printed in such low resolution as to render details and content almost unrecognizable. The closer one gets to these photos, the less one knows. I’ve included images from classic Hollywood. Even though they are stripped of detail, they still convey meaning–familiar archetypes of beauty and desirability. My intent is to draw attention to and frustrate our voyeuristic impulses. We’re invited to ponder not only what we’re looking at, but how and why.

Stavros at His Bath

In February and March I showed my new photo series, Stavros at His Bath at Mercury 20 in Oakland.  The project draws inspiration from 19th century paintings of women at their toilets, bathing scantily-clad by the river, or lunching in the grass naked with their clothed male companions.

During the 19th century, the representation of the nude female body underwent a revolution whose main insurgents were Gustave Courbet and Édouard Manet.  They rejected the idealized nudes of academic painting, as well as the hypocritical confinement of the erotic to mythological subjects.  Manet painted his Olympia in 1863, based on Titian’s Venus of Urbino and Giorgione’s Sleeping Venus.  Rather than depicting the goddess of love, Manet’s subject is a prostitute, a real woman, shocking because of her confrontational gaze and sexual independence.

The subject of my series, Stavros, my former lover, is a large bearish man emerging from his tub, floating in the sea, sprawled on his bed, but rendered in such low resolution as to obliterate details of personality or identity.  The images are 30” x 38” printed in a resolution of 12 x 16 pixels, each pixel about 2 inches square.  I share these intimate moments in Stavros’ day, but I ask my viewers to fill in the details.  I aim to frustrate our voyeuristic impulses, and sidestep comparisons with, and critiques of, this particular body.  In an age of accessible images of nakedness and the ubiquity of selfies, I seek to distract us from the nude form and focus our attention instead on how we look at it.  What exactly do we want to see?

I imagine that you, my dear readers, can fill in many of the details, given that I’ve documented so much of my courtship with Stavrulaki.  Indeed, the interior life that I aim to document in my blog can be seen as the other side of my camera.  Many of the pictures were shot while traveling around with Stavros and his new boyfriend in Greece, months after our breakup. The final image, of the sunset at Naxos, makes reference to the end of our relationship and to the island where Theseus abandoned Ariadne. Her fate wasn’t that bad: Dionysos, the god of wine, ecstasy and wild pleasure, swung by and married her.

Some corner of a foreign field…

I spent the last few weeks in Greece, traveling around with Stavros and his new squeeze. Big Chrissy joined us for the first week, passing a few days in Athens, visiting the Archaeological Museum, Acropolis and Acropolis Museum–musts for new visitors, and for me so nice to revisit Papposilenus, Poseidon, Hadrian and all my other guys.

We attended a staging of Sophocles’ Oedipus Rex at the open air Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built in 161 AD on the southern slope of the Acropolis. It was a joint production of the Vakhtangov State Academic Theatre of Russia and the National Theatre of Greece, directed by Rimas Tuminas. Greek actors performed the ancient Chorus in Greek, and Russian actors the lead parts in Russian. At the center of the stage was a single rusted steel tube, a little over a person’s height in diameter, that characters hopped onto and off of, rolling upstage and back as Oedipus hollers at Tiresias and Creon and slowly figures out that he can’t escape his fate. Jocasta was played by an actress who almost comically looked like Oedipus’ grandmother, slowly hobbling across the stage in a dynamite performance.

We visited the Panathenaic stadium, built around 330 BC for the Panathenaic games. It was rebuilt entirely of marble by Herodes Atticus in 144 AD, and much later, and after a complete restoration, in 1896 hosted the first modern international Olympics games. At one end of the field are two delightful herms, one of which is double-sided and double-genitaled, representing Apollo and Hermes. Herms were made to ward off bad energy, as markers, for good luck, etc… but I find their stripped down quality, just head and penis, incredibly entertaining–really, just forget about the rest of this guy.

We saw a really great show of sculpture by Ai WeiWei at the Museum of Cycladic Art. Installed in the neoclassical wing of the museum were meticulously hand-crafted pieces that conceptually addressed the current refugee crisis in Greece, various humanitarian crises in China, and a clever statue made in the style of an early cycladic figure dropping a vase, referring to Ai’s destruction of neolithic pottery in his earlier work. Interspersed throughout the rest of the museum were sculptures that visually blended in with the museum’s collection, handmade shards of pottery, ground neolithic pots, etc, made to look old but referencing contemporary concerns.

From Athens we drove through the Peloponnesos to Neapolis and hopped on the ferry for Kythira. Kythira is where Aphrodite, the goddess of love, was born. There are several versions of her origins, but my favorite has her emerging from the sea foam after Cronus chopped off his dad Uranus’ genitals and tossed them into the sea. The first thing you see on approaching the island is a shipwreck. Driving out of the port and across the barren island, it quickly becomes apparent why Aphrodite was only born here, not much to inspire procreative activity, at least on this part of Kythira. Indeed, the island’s population has dwindled from 14,500 in 1864 to about 4,000 today. In the 16th century the pirate Barbarossa invaded the island, leveled the capital, and sold the survivors into slavery. Stavros complained the whole way, “This is terrible, this tastes horrible, that’s fake.”

The scenic village of Mylopotomos once had 22 mills operating along a small stream with a charming waterfall. We hiked through the ruins of the mills, most almost completely consumed by the surrounding forest, to the seasonally dried-up waterfall and pesto pond below. We had lunch in the main square, under huge old sycamores, and then made our way to the ruins of a Venetian castle on the edge of town, and the cave of Agia Sofia with its 13th century byzantine frescoes. The current capital was founded by the Venetians in the 13th century and is crowned with a picturesque castle.

We had a fabulous dinner at Taverna Filio in Kalamos, the last customers on their last open night of the season. We ordered stuffed fried zucchini flowers, fava (puréed split peas), horta (stewed greens), lamb and potatoes, and baked eggplant, each dish so flavorful. We also had tiganopsomo, a deep fried flat bread served almost like a pizza, with toppings of cheese and tomatoes. They grow and grind their own wheat for their breads, which are proudly brought to the table fresh from the oven. The house wines are crisp and refreshing. The service is friendly and enthusiastic. All dishes are made with locally grown and sourced produce and meats.

The next day we hopped on the ferry back to Neapolis and drove to Monemvasia, a perfectly preserved byzantine gem of a city built into the side of a solid sheer rock of an island. This was my third time to visit, and my first time to stay within the castle walls. Our hotel was an outrageously fabulous restored centuries-old house, with a terrace overlooking the sea and rooftops and domes of the town. No cars are allowed within the castle walls, so you hear only the occasional donkey clomp-clomping by. It really feels like stepping back in time.
 

After dropping Chrissy off at the airport, Stavros and I headed to Evia, about an hour and a half drive northeast of Athens, a large island that hugs about half of the mainland’s east coast, separated from it by a narrow channel. Our first stop was Halkida (Chalcis), for a quick walk along the channel waterfront. Because of the length of the island, its proximity to the mainland, and the different flows coming into the channel from north and south, an effect called “crazy water” can be observed. Every six hours strong tidal currents reverse direction, creating strong flows of water in opposite directions. Aristotle spent his last year in Halkida and was among the first to speculate correctly about the cause of the tidal shift.

After a really nice lunch on the waterfront near Kymi, we hopped onto the ferry for Skyros island. Skyros is another of those islands not on the map for a lot of foreign travelers. Stavros and I reserved a house through AirBnB, in the village of Molos, in the shadow of the main town and close to the beach. Our hostess was the most knowledgable Skyrophile who has ever lived, having written books on the cuisine, ceramics and history of the island, the books casually scattered among our room’s furnishings. On Sunday morning, driving into town with Stavros, hours after she and her husband had taken off for church in town, we saw her sauntering back to the house, in her tight dress and high heels and perfect conch of a hairdo. To get to where she was from town, she had to have walked down through the winding streets of town–essentially down a mountain–and then several miles to where we saw her. In high heels. Not a hair out of place. I was in awe. She’s like someone Melina Mercouri would have portrayed.

The main town is perched on the slopes of a steep mountain overlooking the sea. Near the charming folk art museum, there’s a nude statue dedicated to eternal poetry and Rupert Brooke, the english poet known for his beauty and romantic war poems, serenely perched on a theatrical stage set of sea and sky. Rupert was connected to Skyros only through his death. While in the British Royal Navy, he developed sepsis from an infected mosquito bite and died in a French hospital ship moored in a bay off the island. He was buried in an olive grove in the otherwise rocky and barren southern part of the island.

Hiking up through town to the castle we were accosted by several sweet middle-aged women, Athenians closing up their houses for the season, one of whom invited us into her home. Eager to show us a traditional Skyrian home, she proudly pointed out her many ceramics and freshly polished copper wares, and served us mastiha, a liqueur flavored with resin of the mastic tree.

The island is shaped like a figure 8, with the northern part densely green and lush. There’s a neolithic settlement on the northern tip and several other ruins scattered here and there along the drive, reflecting the various architectural styles of Roman, Venetian, Macedonian and Byzantine civilizations.

The southern part of the island is very rocky and bare. Near the most southern point, along the main road, are rock formations–either naturally occurring or by human hand, not sure, but they’re very striking in the landscape–forming a (seemingly) natural abstract sculpture garden, with the occasional passing goat or wild pony.

There’s a pony that’s native to Skyros, brought to the island by Athenian settlers sometime between the 8th and 5th centuries BC, one of the rarest horse breeds in the world. The ponies may have been used by Alexander in his conquests, and might be the horses depicted on the Parthenon frieze. The ponies are semi-wild in the southern part of the island, but many have been caught and tamed for use by farmers, ranging across the island until they are needed for the grain harvest.

Driving back to Athens, we took the longer mountainous route through the heart of Evia, a beautifully scenic drive twisting through dense forests, steep gorges, and sweet little hilltop villages. I’m back in San Francisco now, where Autumn is in full swing, a little discombobulated by how swiftly my time in Greece passed, missing those placid Greek waters, souvlaki pitas, and my dear friends…