Photosplaining 16:9

My recent exhibition 16:9 at Mercury 20 Gallery in Oakland featured 18 untitled pixelated images, selected from a series of 24 (the total series published in the hardback catalog to the exhibition, available for purchase at www.chriskomater.com/catalogs). I provided no other information or guidance. I wanted my viewers to see whatever they wanted, to have an unmitigated visual experience. “What do you see?” I’d ask. They’d speculate half-heartedly, and then immediately ask, “Am I right? What am I really seeing?” I’d reply again with the question, “Well, what do you see?” My viewers became progressively more and more annoyed with me, like I was keeping meaning from them. While I do admit to being guided by some conscious exasperation with my audience’s general lack of engagement over the years, and perhaps even a mild feeling of contempt, I wanted this project not to be about me, but about the viewer. If they didn’t see anything, tough cookies, it’s not my fault that they have no imagination. But, as so many ended up just being frustrated, I’d like to tell you about the source imagery and what some of these images mean to me.

Like all of the images in the series, the source image for the photo above is taken from the film, “Vertigo.” Specifically, it’s of Madeleine (Kim Novack) standing by the San Francisco Bay’s edge at Fort Point under the Golden Gate Bridge, moments before attempting suicide by plunging into the icy depths.

Scotty (Jimmy Stewart) suffers from vertigo, and has been hired by an old friend, Gavin Elster, to follow his wife, Madeleine, around San Francisco.  Gavin’s afraid that his wife may kill herself.  She’s become obsessed with an ancestor, Carlotta Valdez, who killed herself when she was Madeleine’s age, and whose portrait hangs in the Legion of Honor, “Portrait of Carlotta,” which she visits in her wanderings. Madeleine, as we find out later, is actually a tawdry redhead named Judy who is hired by Gavin to pretend to be his wife, so that he could later take advantage of Scotty’s fear of heights in order to kill his actual wife. As Scotty follows Madeleine around San Francisco, he begins to develop feelings for her as he pieces together her story—or rather, the story that he’s been led to believe.

The moment captured in this image is the moment between Scotty’s growing fascination with Madeleine—as an observer—and his direct contact with her, when he breaks the boundary between the observer and the observed.  He becomes her rescuer, jumping in the Bay after her, and the two eventually make love, further complicating what their relationship was supposed to have been, planned of course by Gavin Elster, and what it becomes.

Much later, after he sees—or thinks he sees—Madeleine fall to her death from the tower at the Mission San Juan Bautista, and, following a nervous breakdown, he wanders the same streets, grief-stricken. He eventually bumps into Judy, the actual woman who disguised herself as Madeleine, and follows her to her apartment. Despite her protestations, he pushes until she gives in to him. He attempts to transform her into the form of his dead lover by buying her the same clothes as Madeleine and bleaching her hair the same color—an attempted illusion complicated by the fact that the illusion is actually the real thing… which was an illusion in the first place!

The still captures that wonderful moment before possibility and longing and desire and illusion give way to actual experience. The themes of reality and obsession in the film, of deception, duplicity, of characters seeing what they want to see or what they’re led to believe, are themes that reflect what I wanted to do with my 16:9 project. Do we see what we want to see, or do we see only what people tell us to see? Remember Plato’s cave allegory? Prisoners in a cave are chained to a wall and see only shadows cast on the wall, which they take as reality, but which are only representations of the real world.  The allegory deals with how we perceive reality and whether there are higher truths.

The source image for this pixelated work from the series is of Midge (Barbara bel Geddes), in a red sweater with her hands up in the air, grabbing the back of her head and exclaiming “Marjorie Wood… stupid! stupid! stupid!”  It’s the only time you hear the character’s full name, the name I gave to my online gallery, Marjorie Wood Gallery, which I ran in the early aughts.

Just prior to the moment captured in this still, Scotty tells Midge of being hired by Elster to follow his wife.  Midge, a graphic artist living on Russian Hill (where I went to college), sensing that Scotty has become obsessed with Madeleine, and more than a little jealous, paints a portrait of herself as Carlotta Valdez, in a bid for his attention.  When he sees the painting, he gets upset and leaves the apartment, and here we see Midge in the scene that the still is from.  After the raised-hands-stupid-stupid bit, you get only a glance at the painting that she’s made. From a vantage point behind the canvas, we see her in front of the painting as the scene ends and she makes 2 strokes with her brush, one to the left, and one to the right, as if painting a mustache on her portrait. We don’t see the mustache, we just see Midge’s gesture. I think of Marcel Duchamp painting a mustache on the Mona Lisa and signing it as that of his female counterpart, Rrose Sélavy.

The still captures an excruciatingly painful moment for Midge, who has tried and failed to express through her art what she can’t with words.  My best friend Chris, my former lover, and I, who know way too much about this film and each other, have argued for years about which of us is Midge, and which is Scotty, each seeing what we want in her character.  

There’s just so much of me in that film, so much that has driven and fed my art over the years.  My project is an homage of sorts. Each still has tremendous personal meaning and significance, but only to me.  I’ve resisted telling people about the source images because I wanted the work to be about them, about what they think they see, and not what I’m telling them they’re supposed to be seeing.  There are no “higher truths” in the work, only my relation to shadows cast on the silver screen, and the hope that my viewer may make something interesting of the pixels that I’ve arranged for them to ponder.

But am I channeling Hitchcock, the director, my co-creator of these images, or am I channeling Gavin Elster, taking advantage of my viewer’s vulnerabilities and imagination?  Am I showing you a shadow of reality, or reality itself?

Davide

Me & Davide, Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris, June 2003

My friend Davide was found dead yesterday, the cause as of yet unknown. He lived in New York, and I don’t know any of his friends there, so details have trickled down to me through a meandering stream of distantly connected acquaintances and lovers. I met Davide in Paris in 2003. He was in his late-20s at the time, very much into skateboarder culture and the Scottish post-rock band Mogwai. He had the physical posture and world-weariness of someone significantly older, his head bobbing up and down as he spoke, shoulders slumped forward. We bonded instantly over the films of Harmony Korine and Larry Clark’s “Kids.”

He was born in Modena, Italy, “where balsamic vinegar comes from,” he told me, unironically, his own sweetly acerbic manner gradually revealed over the course of our friendship. I adored Davide. He didn’t know his father. His mother, with whom he had a very close relationship, committed suicide a few years ago. His depressing family history, the depressing emo pop culture he immersed himself in, his depressing demeanor, were all components of a very stylish and sophisticated character who would have starred alongside Monica Vitti in an early 60s Antonioni film.

When he moved to the States, he stayed with me for a few months, while he found work and a place to live. We shared an interest in the same type of guy: middle-aged, furry, bearded, husky. While I engaged with a few of these same guys in very complicated emotionally-draining exchanges, Davide bedded them all. I was in awe, he followed his desires with no dawdling between attraction and connection. He had a few more serious relationships, complicated and demanding in ways that his ephemeral connections were effortless.

I’ve seen Davide only a few times over the years since he moved to New York, and was looking forward to his visit here in February next year, to hear of his latest loves and frustrations, to talk about film and music and art. He was my Italian brother, someone with a shared experience and intimacy that bridged great gaps in time together. I speak a little Italian, far from fluent, but Davide would sometimes lapse into gusts of Italian, me looking at him with that deer-in-headlights look, the momentary lapse in communication indicative of a deeper understanding of how we were connected. Part of me has known that this was his destiny, that he just wouldn’t be here at some point, but as one of his great loves Tim said of his tenebrous facade, “It just seemed like part of his charm.” And now Davide’s gone, my sad little brother lost forever.

Mom

CHRIS: I can’t believe mom is gone.

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS: What do you mean? Do you think something else happened to her, that she’s not dead?

CHRIS: No no, I’m not saying that… but, actually, I hadn’t thought of that. Great. More content for my already richly and imaginatively anxious dream life. I guess I’m saying that I don’t really have words for what I’m feeling. Of course I know that mom is dead, her ashes rest in an urn on my desk. Disbelief is perhaps something easier to relate to. I can’t relate to her not being here, to hearing her giggle in my head, to seeing her smile so clearly, to feeling my head in her lap. There’s a disconnect between what’s happening in my head and… well, what’s happening in my head. How can she seem so alive and present and not be here? And dad, too… and Sue. A third of my inner family, just gone.

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS: This is life. Death’s an inevitable part of it.

CHRIS (rolls eyes): I remember when my grandfather died. I didn’t really know him, my grandparents lived in Chicago and I grew up in Alabama, and we had visited only a few times that I could remember. Aunt Joan called to say that he had died. I was maybe 10 or 11. I hadn’t experienced death before, and I just burst into tears. He wasn’t even a part of my life, but the idea of him suddenly not being around to even get to know wasn’t something that I had even thought about. He was always just, there. But dead? It was the first time I’d experienced real loss. When Manny died, I was only 27. I spent a year in deep mourning, but my goal was to get on with my life, and I knew I’d be okay, that I’d learn to live with his absence, that it would get easier. My grief was my job. But I had my whole life ahead of me, so many possibilities, maybe even another great or even greater love. Now, with mom’s death, it feels like the slow slide to the grave. I’m six of seven kids. Will I have to go through this again? And again and again and again and again and again?

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS: Well, yes… but…

CHRIS: But what? I’ll get used to it? I’ll live and enjoy every day as if it’s my last? And my sister’s last? And my brother’s last? And my other sisters’? And my other brother’s? And Big Chrissy’s? d’Auggie’s? Zoobie’s? I’m really not sure I can handle it.

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS: Chris, you have handled it. You did learn to live with Manny’s death. Remember at the time you really didn’t know if you’d ever feel even happy again, if you’d ever love again? And yet you did.

CHRIS (interrupts): Oh no… and Bob? I hadn’t even thought of that, Bob will die, too, the other great love of my life, my mentor, my guide… how could I live without him there… here?

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS: Bob is married to someone else, he’s happy, he’s a published author, accomplished, content, he’s had a good life, you’ll always have the memories of your time together…

CHRIS (interrupts again): Okay, don’t even go there. Mom told me many times in her final months that she’d never forget what I did for her, moving her in with me for her last year, taking care of her. I remember responding, jokingly, “Mom, you’ll be dead, how will you remember? When is this future time that we’ll be sipping a glass of wine together, reminiscing about these days that you’ll never forget? I appreciate what you’re saying, and this has been the greatest experience of my life, to spend these final days with you. I feel your gratitude now, and I am very grateful, too, for this time together.”

PAUSE

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS (lowering their heads and raising their eyes and bushy eyebrows above their glasses)

CHRIS: Oh. Right.

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS: Yes. You’re absolutely right. You’re still alive. Your siblings, dogs, Chrissy, Bob and all you friends…

CHRIS (interrupts again, shrieking): And my friends! I forgot about them, too, they’re all going to die!!

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS: Chris, focus… Your mom is gone. But those final days were among the finest you spent with her—you just said so—a really special time made all the more special and urgent by their impermanence. You’re at an age where death is going to be more prevalent…

CHRIS (interrupts again): But I lived through the AIDS crisis, when so many of my friends, boyfriends, my partner, fellow artists, all those gray faced men in my neighborhood carting around their oxygen tanks, they all died, so quickly. And Augustine, my sweet beautiful Augustine. If I hadn’t seen an acquaintance in 3 weeks, I’d be afraid to ask how he was, afraid that he, too, would be dead. I actually haven’t asked John West if his former lover, Chris, whom I last saw in 1993, smiling, still young, so vibrant and alive, but with that telltale gray skin… is he, is he dead, too?

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS (collectively, but quietly, and somewhat sympathetically, sighing): That was an insanely painful time, and you made it through. Just as now, just as what you were saying. You learned to live with death at a very early age and experienced more death than anyone should at that age.

CHORUS ABRUPTLY STARTS TO CRY

CHRIS: Sheesh, guys, brace up. I’m the one who’s supposed to be crying.

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS (sniffling, then sobbing loudly, cathartically): But we are you, we’re in your head, and we were there, we remember. How did you do it? How did we do it?? Don’t you remember Jesse Helms, the Moral Majority, all those people who didn’t care if you or your friends died, who called you names, who wouldn’t let your friend go to his own lover’s funeral???

CHRIS: Okay, guys, really, get it together. Listen… to the sound… of my soothing voice. And I’m paying for this session, remember? But see what I’m saying? It’s not as easy as just accepting that we’re strong, that death is inevitable, that we should live every day like it’s our last, carpe diem and all that shit.

CHORUS OF THERAPISTS (finally pulling it together): Helen Reddy said all that needs to be said here:

Oh yes I am wise
But it’s wisdom born of pain
Yes, I’ve paid the price
But look how much I gained
If I have to, I can do anything
I am strong (strong!)
I am invincible (invincible!)…

SCENE FADES TO BLACK AS MUSIC SWELLS AND IS ABRUPTLY CUT OFF BEFORE HELEN CAN EXCLAIM LOUDLY AND PROUDLY “I AM WOMAN,” WHICH WOULD LEND AN AIR OF GENDER DYSPHORIA—NOT ENTIRELY WITHOUT ITS PLACE, BUT HERE, MAYBE IT WOULD GET A LITTLE CONFUSING

END SCENE

James, Barb, Annetta & the Linebacker

During my time caring for my parents in Alabama, I met my friends James and Barb and Annetta for dinner at an Ethiopian restaurant in Homewood. As they sat down, I blurted out “I just had a fling with a closeted former NFL linebacker. His thigh was the size of me…”

Barb looked at me disbelievingly, “You had sex with a stranger?”

“Well… his kids were at school and we…”

“Wait… Kids? At school? He’s married?”

“Well, separated, but…”

“And he’s closeted?”

“I assume so. So when I arrived he led me quickly to his basement where…”

“His basement?? You went to a complete stranger’s house and let him take you into his basement? He could have been an axe murderer…”

I hadn’t even thought of that. I started to get a little frustrated. I hadn’t had any sort of intimate relations in how long? and was eager to share my adventure with my friends. My linebacker was a very sweet man, so seemingly eager to connect. He lived only a few miles from my childhood home and told me of orgies that he’d arranged when he was a kid in middle and high school (middle school??) with the other boys in the neighborhood. I listened dumbfounded, remembering my fairly chaste adolescence and almost constant unfulfilled desire. And orgies were happening down the road? That I actually could have gone to?? I was mesmerized by this alternate vision of childhood.

Barb is a teacher, in a business college, and Annetta as well, instructional design and group dynamics stuff. They co-teach a class that integrates principles from Harry Potter and Hogwarts. They balance each other beautifully, Barb the gentle lecturer with lingering midwesternisms and Annetta from Salt Lake City but with what sounds like a Brooklyn maybe? accent, and an endearingly aggressive disposition, Marissa Tomei in My Cousin Vinny with a huskier voice. James was my gay buddy in high school and is one of my closest friends still. James was very out by the time I met him, my first role model. Nobody messed with him, he was like Liberace or John Waters, fabulous and fearless and entertaining and smart. At the Miss Poinsettia contest in 10th grade, I wore a sexy strapless gown but forgot the words to my song when I stepped onto the stage, Leon Redbone’s “I Want to Be Seduced.” James appeared on stage blowing bubbles and giggling, just brilliant. James, Barb and Annetta are this dynamic trio of wit, intelligence and delight and I savor every moment with them.

The food arrived and my linebacker’s thigh faded from the conversation, the brief pleasure we experienced eclipsed by the comfort of beloved friends and great food.

A Slice of Heaven in Nea Koroni

The highlight of my recent trip to Greece was the week I spent in Nea Koroni, a tiny seaside village in Messenia on the southwesternmost finger of the Peloponnesos, with Panos and his mother, Kristina.  Κυρία Kristina cooked for us every day, everything fried or doused in oil pressed from their own olives.  I and Panos pruned the lemon trees and worked in the garden, fed the chickens, did some sight-seeing, but most of our time was spent digesting Kristinaki’s scrumpdeliicious cuisine.  Each plate was enough to feed a small Greek village.  On my final day there, she made me BOTH moussaka and pastitsio. It was a week in heaven.

We spent one day at the stunningly beautiful Voidokilia beach.  Above the beach is Nestor’s Cave and above this are the ruins of a 13th c. Frankish castle.  The beach, named after and in the crescent shape of a cow’s stomach, is where Homer’s Telemachus was welcomed by King Nestor when searching for his father, Odysseus.  According to myth, Nestor’s Cave is where Hermes hid the cattle stolen from Apollo.

A short drive away are two palaces: the Palace of Nestor, a well-preserved Mycenaean palace from about 1300 BC; and the Fairytale Castle of Agrilis.  The latter was recently built by a Greek American who returned to his ancestral land and built this folly on the beach, as well as a miniature Eiffel Tower nearby.

Panos and his mom yell at each other across the courtyard, affectionately.  And also across the street to the neighbors.  All day there’s the sound of this cheerful banter.  They call each other “my child” in Greek.  Κυρία Kristina is one of the most delightful, friendly and happy people I’ve ever met.  She laughs at and is amused by everything, even the mosquitos that get zapped by her tennis racquet-shaped electric bug zapper.  She fed me giant plates of lovingly prepared meals, always followed by abundant seconds, and at every meal copious amounts of tsipouro and chilled rosé, poured from plastic liter bottles. She read my future from the Greek coffee grounds in my cup, detailing a circuitous path to love, fortune and adventure.  Everyone should have a Greek mother–I’ve finally found mine!

A Return to Athens: Graffiti in Psyri, Bronzes in Piraeus

I spent the last few weeks of April in Greece, visiting old friends in Athens, exploring the island of Syros with my friend Daniel, and a week with the adorable Panos and his mom in their village in Messenia.

Daniel and I stayed in Psyri, in a fairly fabulous AirBnB overlooking the Acropolis.  Psyri, just north of the Monastiraki metro station, was settled in the 19th century by immigrants from Naxos.  The notorious inhabitants of the area became known as the kontsavakides – pimps and criminals with drooping mustaches, pointy boots, and weapons concealed in their wide sashes.  In the 20th century, Psiri became a working class neighborhood with leather workshops and tiny factories, which in the 1990s paved the way to the scene today: trendy nightclubs, bars, galleries, cafes and restaurants, and fabulous graffiti.  Lord Byron penned his “Maid of Athens” poem here:

Oh maid of Athens, ere I part
Give oh give me back my heart

Unable to get to Syros because of the Seaman’s Union strike, we had an extra day in Athens, so took the metro to the port of Piraeus and trekked over to the archaeological museum there. Hardly any visitors and a whopping four life-sized archaic and classical bronzes. This museum gets few visitors, and their collection is dynamite. There’s an ancient amphitheater out back, as well as fascinating funerary sculpture.

On to Syros…

First Heartbreak, 1977

My first break up letter, from my girlfriend Kim, written in 1977, when I was 11. She was 2 years older than me, my first French kiss. She handed me the note and as I walked home after reading it, my little heart broken, I ripped it up and let the pieces fall behind me. I didn’t notice that Kim had followed me and picked them up, which she presented to me years later.

She was a tomboy, I was a sissy.  Once the other boys in the neighborhood tied Kim up to a tree and dangled daddy long-leg spiders in front of her.  I don’t think I could have survived such an ordeal, my knees trembled at the thought, but Kim just laughed, defiantly undaunted.  I was in awe.  In the mid-90s she and her girlfriend and I drove back to our old hometown and revisited the sites of our pre-teen romance.  We speculated that our attraction to each other as children could have been the foundations for our later same-sex desires, each of us exhibiting characteristics that we associated with the opposite sex.

We actually got in a real fight once, after the breakup.  At school, between classes, she would try to trip me on the stairs as we passed each other, headed in opposite directions.  Remember, she was 2 years older, a big scary tomboy.  After school one day in the driveway of a mutual friend, she kicked my skateboard and I just couldn’t take it anymore and slugged her, right in the face.  (You have to imagine the punch coming from someone who struck out in kickball, to get an accurate picture of my assault.)  It’s the only time I’ve ever struck anyone.  I ran home sobbing.

 A few years later, after my family had moved to a different town, Kim and I had a date.  I was maybe 14 then, and she at 16 had been having a serious relationship with some guy.  We double-dated with some friends of hers who had a car, and went somewhere and parked the car and made out, Lionel Ritchie on the car stereo.  It was obvious to me that she had learned some things from this guy, for she was very quickly batting us around all the bases.  No home run, but I couldn’t wait to tell my friends.

…break up. I… to get… took me… to get up… before… you …I been going with you… too long. I… you a little bit, not enough… on this relationship. I’m sorry, Kim. And then, in a little heart, Kim doesn’t love Chris anymore.

Some corner of a foreign field…

I spent the last few weeks in Greece, traveling around with Stavros and his new squeeze. Big Chrissy joined us for the first week, passing a few days in Athens, visiting the Archaeological Museum, Acropolis and Acropolis Museum–musts for new visitors, and for me so nice to revisit Papposilenus, Poseidon, Hadrian and all my other guys.

We attended a staging of Sophocles’ Oedipus Rex at the open air Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built in 161 AD on the southern slope of the Acropolis. It was a joint production of the Vakhtangov State Academic Theatre of Russia and the National Theatre of Greece, directed by Rimas Tuminas. Greek actors performed the ancient Chorus in Greek, and Russian actors the lead parts in Russian. At the center of the stage was a single rusted steel tube, a little over a person’s height in diameter, that characters hopped onto and off of, rolling upstage and back as Oedipus hollers at Tiresias and Creon and slowly figures out that he can’t escape his fate. Jocasta was played by an actress who almost comically looked like Oedipus’ grandmother, slowly hobbling across the stage in a dynamite performance.

We visited the Panathenaic stadium, built around 330 BC for the Panathenaic games. It was rebuilt entirely of marble by Herodes Atticus in 144 AD, and much later, and after a complete restoration, in 1896 hosted the first modern international Olympics games. At one end of the field are two delightful herms, one of which is double-sided and double-genitaled, representing Apollo and Hermes. Herms were made to ward off bad energy, as markers, for good luck, etc… but I find their stripped down quality, just head and penis, incredibly entertaining–really, just forget about the rest of this guy.

We saw a really great show of sculpture by Ai WeiWei at the Museum of Cycladic Art. Installed in the neoclassical wing of the museum were meticulously hand-crafted pieces that conceptually addressed the current refugee crisis in Greece, various humanitarian crises in China, and a clever statue made in the style of an early cycladic figure dropping a vase, referring to Ai’s destruction of neolithic pottery in his earlier work. Interspersed throughout the rest of the museum were sculptures that visually blended in with the museum’s collection, handmade shards of pottery, ground neolithic pots, etc, made to look old but referencing contemporary concerns.

From Athens we drove through the Peloponnesos to Neapolis and hopped on the ferry for Kythira. Kythira is where Aphrodite, the goddess of love, was born. There are several versions of her origins, but my favorite has her emerging from the sea foam after Cronus chopped off his dad Uranus’ genitals and tossed them into the sea. The first thing you see on approaching the island is a shipwreck. Driving out of the port and across the barren island, it quickly becomes apparent why Aphrodite was only born here, not much to inspire procreative activity, at least on this part of Kythira. Indeed, the island’s population has dwindled from 14,500 in 1864 to about 4,000 today. In the 16th century the pirate Barbarossa invaded the island, leveled the capital, and sold the survivors into slavery. Stavros complained the whole way, “This is terrible, this tastes horrible, that’s fake.”

The scenic village of Mylopotomos once had 22 mills operating along a small stream with a charming waterfall. We hiked through the ruins of the mills, most almost completely consumed by the surrounding forest, to the seasonally dried-up waterfall and pesto pond below. We had lunch in the main square, under huge old sycamores, and then made our way to the ruins of a Venetian castle on the edge of town, and the cave of Agia Sofia with its 13th century byzantine frescoes. The current capital was founded by the Venetians in the 13th century and is crowned with a picturesque castle.

We had a fabulous dinner at Taverna Filio in Kalamos, the last customers on their last open night of the season. We ordered stuffed fried zucchini flowers, fava (puréed split peas), horta (stewed greens), lamb and potatoes, and baked eggplant, each dish so flavorful. We also had tiganopsomo, a deep fried flat bread served almost like a pizza, with toppings of cheese and tomatoes. They grow and grind their own wheat for their breads, which are proudly brought to the table fresh from the oven. The house wines are crisp and refreshing. The service is friendly and enthusiastic. All dishes are made with locally grown and sourced produce and meats.

The next day we hopped on the ferry back to Neapolis and drove to Monemvasia, a perfectly preserved byzantine gem of a city built into the side of a solid sheer rock of an island. This was my third time to visit, and my first time to stay within the castle walls. Our hotel was an outrageously fabulous restored centuries-old house, with a terrace overlooking the sea and rooftops and domes of the town. No cars are allowed within the castle walls, so you hear only the occasional donkey clomp-clomping by. It really feels like stepping back in time.
 

After dropping Chrissy off at the airport, Stavros and I headed to Evia, about an hour and a half drive northeast of Athens, a large island that hugs about half of the mainland’s east coast, separated from it by a narrow channel. Our first stop was Halkida (Chalcis), for a quick walk along the channel waterfront. Because of the length of the island, its proximity to the mainland, and the different flows coming into the channel from north and south, an effect called “crazy water” can be observed. Every six hours strong tidal currents reverse direction, creating strong flows of water in opposite directions. Aristotle spent his last year in Halkida and was among the first to speculate correctly about the cause of the tidal shift.

After a really nice lunch on the waterfront near Kymi, we hopped onto the ferry for Skyros island. Skyros is another of those islands not on the map for a lot of foreign travelers. Stavros and I reserved a house through AirBnB, in the village of Molos, in the shadow of the main town and close to the beach. Our hostess was the most knowledgable Skyrophile who has ever lived, having written books on the cuisine, ceramics and history of the island, the books casually scattered among our room’s furnishings. On Sunday morning, driving into town with Stavros, hours after she and her husband had taken off for church in town, we saw her sauntering back to the house, in her tight dress and high heels and perfect conch of a hairdo. To get to where she was from town, she had to have walked down through the winding streets of town–essentially down a mountain–and then several miles to where we saw her. In high heels. Not a hair out of place. I was in awe. She’s like someone Melina Mercouri would have portrayed.

The main town is perched on the slopes of a steep mountain overlooking the sea. Near the charming folk art museum, there’s a nude statue dedicated to eternal poetry and Rupert Brooke, the english poet known for his beauty and romantic war poems, serenely perched on a theatrical stage set of sea and sky. Rupert was connected to Skyros only through his death. While in the British Royal Navy, he developed sepsis from an infected mosquito bite and died in a French hospital ship moored in a bay off the island. He was buried in an olive grove in the otherwise rocky and barren southern part of the island.

Hiking up through town to the castle we were accosted by several sweet middle-aged women, Athenians closing up their houses for the season, one of whom invited us into her home. Eager to show us a traditional Skyrian home, she proudly pointed out her many ceramics and freshly polished copper wares, and served us mastiha, a liqueur flavored with resin of the mastic tree.

The island is shaped like a figure 8, with the northern part densely green and lush. There’s a neolithic settlement on the northern tip and several other ruins scattered here and there along the drive, reflecting the various architectural styles of Roman, Venetian, Macedonian and Byzantine civilizations.

The southern part of the island is very rocky and bare. Near the most southern point, along the main road, are rock formations–either naturally occurring or by human hand, not sure, but they’re very striking in the landscape–forming a (seemingly) natural abstract sculpture garden, with the occasional passing goat or wild pony.

There’s a pony that’s native to Skyros, brought to the island by Athenian settlers sometime between the 8th and 5th centuries BC, one of the rarest horse breeds in the world. The ponies may have been used by Alexander in his conquests, and might be the horses depicted on the Parthenon frieze. The ponies are semi-wild in the southern part of the island, but many have been caught and tamed for use by farmers, ranging across the island until they are needed for the grain harvest.

Driving back to Athens, we took the longer mountainous route through the heart of Evia, a beautifully scenic drive twisting through dense forests, steep gorges, and sweet little hilltop villages. I’m back in San Francisco now, where Autumn is in full swing, a little discombobulated by how swiftly my time in Greece passed, missing those placid Greek waters, souvlaki pitas, and my dear friends…

Two More Days

I’ll be 48 for only two more days. Ron was 48 when we briefly went out nearly 30 years ago. Well, we didn’t really “go out,” we actually just boinked a few times, but man did I have a crush on that guy. His big gray mustache and eyebrows, his deep bellowing laugh, the craggy lines on his big face. I completely fetishized the late 40s for much of my baby gay days. I’m that age now, but somehow can’t make the leap to thinking of myself as his peer, or having my grays and wrinkles and ear hair fetishized.

My sister died fewer than 2 years ago. I still wake up crying, I still can’t wrap myself around the notion of Susie being so profoundly gone. I read about Syrians and Palestinians losing several generations of family members in one brutal moment, and wonder how in the heck they do it. And I have a home and hot water.

Life used to be this thing that was forever in the future, so many things to do, so much time to get it all done, later, always the possibility of later. Now it seems that later is now, and the only inevitability is more ear hair, more gray, a body that gets progressively less cooperative… On the bright side, I’m totally on the road to becoming the man I love, or at least looking like him. As soon as my back hair grows in I won’t need anybody. I used to think of old people as a sort of other species, that they were cranky because they were of a different sort of genetic material. Now I find myself complaining about Republicans and dirty sidewalks and noisy kids and the changing demographics of my neighborhood. I listen to the Carpenters with no irony.

And then Davide came to visit, fresh from his breakup, and dated up a storm while he was here, no not a storm, some sort of southeast Asian typhoon-like squall, and with all these guys with beards down to their bellies and bellies sitting on their laps.

And then Stavros and Giorgos came to visit. I seemed to be sick the entire time they were here, but with me hacking and wheezing we went to Lake Tahoe with Big Chris and the dogs, took the ferry to see Ai WeiWei’s show on Alcatraz (a few visually dazzling sculptural statements, but generally Public Art for people who like confirmation that what they think they’re experiencing they are indeed experiencing: lots of stuff to read, politically correct, softcore, nothing particularly memorable or challenging), we visited Julia Morgan’s Chapel of the Chimes in Oakland, met with my movie group, had a reception for my show at Mercury 20 and the same three guys who eat everything at all of our openings came and ate all of our deviled eggs and pickled veggies, attended a pre-Thanksgiving Thanksgiving dinner in honor of Big Chris’ little sister’s birthday, celebrated my grand-nephew’s first birthday, attended an authentic suburban party in honor of my friend Thomas’ 50th birthday, with taco truck!, spent a day driving up and around the Sonoma Coast, saw a million movies together including Cloudburst, known as the best geriatric lesbian road movie every made, but it’s really the only geriatric lesbian road movie ever made and it put seven of us to sleep, plus two dogs… and then they were off, back to Athens, the visit over way too fast. Now I miss my little Stavros again, the dogs my only furry companions, pushing me into an increasingly tinier corner of the bed as they flash their fuzzy tummies at me to rub.

I hope you all saw Dean Smith’s show at Paule Anglim’s. It was great, paintings from before his current obsessive compulsive squiggly line and check phase. I was mesmerized by the simultaneous flatness and depth, some like windows onto some unreachable but lush and possibly fleshy scene. Those surfaces are something else, so much happening, with lines, strokes and waves going this way and that… and Dean’s hand nowhere but obviously everywhere. So satisfying to see paintings that have so much physicality and visual allure, that change so radically with proximity.

And now my sister Carol is visiting. We’re up at my other sister June’s for the day, in Santa Rosa, the first of my birthday celebrations. Last night Carol and I watched a wonderful Italian film, Dino Risi’s Il Sorpasso about a studious shy recluse, Roberto, swept away by a gregarious stranger, Bruno. Virtually the only person in town while the rest of Rome is off to the country celebrating Ferragosto, Roberto lets Bruno use his phone, and then reluctantly agrees to take a short break from his studies to share a quick drink with the dynamic Bruno, who is eager to show his gratitude for the use of Roberto’s phone. Once in the car, numerous delightful diversions ensue, with Roberto gradually relaxing and letting himself enjoy the various unexpected and wild whims of Bruno. After 2 days on the road together, Roberto, excitedly egging on Bruno to pass cars, laughing wildly, declares the past 2 days to be the best of his life. The car swerves off the road, Bruno is thrown safely to the shoulder, but Roberto, our shy recluse, trapped in the car, is crushed to smithereens as the car tumbles down the cliff.

It can all end any minute now, so stop resisting and enjoy the ride.

What I Did This Summer by SanFranChrisKo

I’m up at my buddy David’s, enjoying a quiet weekend at his place in Point Reyes, overlooking the placid Tomales Bay, like sitting in a Monet painting, finally able to do some catching up.

For the past few months I’ve been preparing a show of my work, my first solo exhibition in 7 years. I’m showing now with an artists collective in Oakland, the Mercury Twenty Gallery. The thought of being with another commercial gallery—well, actually their collective sort of decision to not work with me, lol—pushed me into seeking an alternative venue to show my work in, one not constrained by profit or homogeneity, but defined by community and the support of ideas and creativity. The members of the collective are responsible for all aspects of running the gallery and presenting exhibitions. I have a backlog of projects, rejected over the past few years by the likes of Mark, Pat, Paule, Brian, and Bernie, that I’ll now have the opportunity of moving from my basement into the light of the white cube, that you all can finally see!, beginning with my recent projects Bouquet and A Dozen Little Roses that opens this Thursday.

So David. He and I dated briefly 20 or so years ago. He’s kind of exactly the guy that I should have settled down with, but I was distracted by the chubby men. Years go by without seeing each other, but whatever attracted us to each other in the first place keeps bringing us back together. He’s working on his memoirs in the garden, while I wait for the blur of my summer activities to coalesce into some internet appropriate narrative.

Big Chris’ big family visited. We took them to see the sea lions at Pier 39, via the touristy Hyde Street Pier and Pier 39, but they were all off mating somewhere. San Franciscans never visit this part of the city. And really, they shouldn’t. Seeing the remains of what was once a working port was sort of thrilling but also instilled a sad sense of loss in my otherwise chirpy proto-tourist demeanor. I love the crazy gospel people, though, the ones with the “He died for you” signs and portable amplification systems, next to the break dancers and old Chinese erhu players. Their sincerity and intensity and vaudevillian showmanship make for great family entertainment, like the 8-year old reverend Jimmy Joe Jeeter on Mary Hartman Mary Hartman. And I love hearing those Bible words, like “smite” and “asunder.”

My mom flew to Chicago to spend some time with her sister, so I flew to Birmingham to dadsit. The downtown is really hopping, with a new arts district and lots of really great restaurants. Rather than replacing southern cuisine with healthy west coast or skimpy nouvelle stuff, they’re integrating other styles and flavors while emphasizing local ingredients and updating classic southern dishes. And you always get a square meal.

Same thing is happening in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. Chrissy and I flew out for Labor Day weekend to pick up d’Auggie’s little brother, Zoobie, the latest addition to our ever expanding alternative family. Zoobie is great, the brother of the Best Dog Ever, soon to be the Other Best Dog Ever. He’s soft and cuddly and does all the same bad things that his brother did when he was a small puppy, down to chewing on the same plant in my garden and peeing on the same spot in my kitchen. So Sioux Falls has this little foodie renaissance happening downtown. We ate at Parker’s Bistro. My favorite dish was a soup, a warm silky sweet potato soup with a puree of chilly avocado and cream swirled into it, stimulating the taste buds with contrasting flavor and temperature sensations. We had an amazing meal, at about 1/4 the price we would have paid in San Francisco. And a parking place right out in front! I’m thinking of becoming a part-time mid-westerner.

Chrissy and I flew to New York for a few days. Just to remind people: we are not boyfriends. Despite his looking like the kind of guy that I would marry, despite having dated him on and off for the past 15 years, and despite us doing everything together, we are not boyfriends. My boyfriend lives in Greece and is named Stavros and you can read about him in my past entries, and when he arrives next month for his periodic conjugal visit. So anyway, New York. The occasion of our visit was to see Cate Blanchett and Isabelle Huppert in Genet’s The Maids, two of our greatest actresses in a deliriously demented play. And Jeff Koons’ show was great! Shut up! People who don’t like his work probably don’t like puppies either.

What else did I do this summer? I sadly missed all chances to have anything other than my extremities exposed to the sun, and thus developed a pronounced farmer tan. High school buddies Jason and Weestro came to visit, and Archie and Vicki, and Lilly from New York. Lilly was being celebrated for her films at the Jewish something or other Center in Berkeley, and I went one night to see her amazing film about good-intentioned heroic Palestinian and Israeli women peacemakers who end up at each others’ throats by the end of the film. I introduced my buddy to her afterwards and he said something along the lines of “Well, I can’t imagine giving Manhattan back to the indians” which amazingly and almost surreally missed the entire point of not only Lilly’s film but the entire Palestinian peoples’ ongoing struggle to free their land from its occupiers. Lilly’s talk after the film was interesting more for the sparring that took place in the audience. This was a mostly over-70 crowd, mind you, and most seemed well acquainted with each other and with each other’s long developed and unchanging perspectives, and ready to pounce. When one calm and articulate rival of hers seemed to be getting too much positive attention, Lilly leaned into her mike and chastised her with “Hey, this evening is about ME, not about you.” I started a new photo project with spider webs, Bob’s and my book project got shelved by our publisher, Aimée made raspberry-topped chocolate cupcakes for Luna’s birthday that were the best treats of summer—actually the best sweet treats, the best savory were the forbidden victuals at Traif in Brooklyn. I saw hardly any art. I’m like a lapsed Catholic kind of artist. Well, actually, I should say that I saw hardly any art that I can remember. Except for Christopher Williams’ The Production Line of Happiness at MoMA, which so completely and with energetic theoretical rigor encompassed the entire art making visual technical consumerist experience. I saw a million movies, but really liked Blue Ruin, The Test, Pietà, Night Moves, Martin Gable’s only (directed) film The Lost Moment, Stranger by the Lake, 7 Boxes, Enemy, Romance and Cigarettes and Under the Skin.

Okay, back to the city…