Up-Chelsea and Down to Soho

The cool thing about a lot of the galleries here is that they are on such a grand scale–gorgeously designed art warehouses for big ideas. There are a lot of wonderful intimate spaces, sure, but the cavernous spaces of Mary Boone, Gagosian and Luhring Augustine are like art carnivals, just spectacular. Gagosian has a super show up of sculptures by David Smith from the 50’s and 60’s, really a mini-museum show of work based on the human form. Mary Boone has a few like super gigantic catoony paintings by Brian Alfred (pictured below left, a time-lapsed painting?), and Luhring Augustine has some sculptures by Rachel Whiteread. I don’t know about the rest of you, but if you’ve seen one Rachel Whiteread, you’ve seen ’em all, honey. Actually, I did find myself drawn to their nuance and delicacy. For this body of work she created casts of the insides of cardboard boxes in plaster, illustrating the aesthetic and conceptual complexities of the utilitarian cardboard box. One of the highlights of yesterday’s outing was a short film called Zoo by a Finnish artist, Salla Tykkä at Yvon Lambert. The camera follows a Hitchcock blonde type woman (below right) around a zoo as she observes and photographs, the point of view shifting back and forth from the animals’ to hers. The soundtrack is ominous and filled with menace. An underwater rugby game is intercut into her trip through the zoo. The film ends with her walking into the water of the bear pen, then cuts to her floating face down. Hey, this is my story! The film uses Hollywood narrative strategies to encourage us to watch ourselves watching, as gendered spectators and participants. We also saw Louise Fishman’s giant gestural abstractions at Cheim & Reid, Tony Oursler’s entertaining video sculptures at Metro Pictures, yet more silly Fischli+Weiss work at Matthew Marks’ up-Chelsea space, enough already, and an interesting show at Jack Shainman of work by Hank Willis Thomas. He’s taken out the text and logos of advertising imagery, revealing the visual strategies and cultural stereotypes used by the advertisers. Michael Raedecker has an interesting show at Andrea Rosen, of pretty and minimally embroidered paintings matted with clumps of hair.

Today we took a stroll through Soho. I haven’t been there since the late 80’s and early 90’s, before all the galleries moved to Chelsea, so it was a bit of a shocker to see how significantly the vibe there has shifted. It’s like an art ghost town, only the former galleries aren’t empty, they’re Prada stores.

The Gallery That Never Died

Yesterday BC and I strolled through a few more Chelsea Galleries (more about them later). We were a bit surprised and unnerved to see the gallery where I was supposed to be showing, that was supposed to have closed, OPEN. I stopped in to get my two prints that they had and talked with the gallery assistant. He said that the gallery got an extension from the landlord, but that he hasn’t been paid in weeks, the director’s in the hospital but he’s not “allowed” to say what he’s being treated for, and the current show is coming down halfway into its run. I took my damaged prints, said goodbye and good luck, and split.

An Evening at Bill’s

Last night I had dinner at Bill Jacobson’s in Brooklyn. Bill’s this really interesting photographer who became quite well known for photographing blurry people. And things. During the height of the AIDS epidemic, his images were an especially poignant reminder of the people who were slipping away. Well, he’s now photographing things in focus, which is sending everyone into a tizzy. His recent work seems to convey the same sense of stillness and formal rigor, just lovely images. He looked at my slides and we ate takeout Thai in his studio. It turns out that he will be visiting with friends in San Francisco who live a block away from me, so it’ll be nice to hang with him back home, too. He’s a very sweet, intelligent, and talented man. I didn’t get to see much of Brooklyn on the way to his studio, but man, the area near where he lives is super hip. I was the oldest one in the subway, by about 20 years, and everybody had on fabulous outfits. This one guy had on a fake fur coat that looked just like a tailored gorilla suit. I have to have one.

Chelsea Outing

Yesterday BC and I hiked up to Chelsea and visited a few galleries. Nan Goldin has a show up at Matthew Marks, same old moody saturated stuff. Next door we saw a show by Fischli+Weiss, a video of two people in a bear and a rat costume, stupidly frolicking in caves and across beautiful landscapes. The animal suits were effectively displayed, barely visible in floor-to-ceiling darkened glass vitrines. Kara Walker has a knockout show at Sikkema Jenkins, of drawings, paintings, cutouts, and a video, Eight Possible Beginnings. In the video, she uses cut-paper marionettes to paint a portrait of the African experience in Antebellum south. Very powerful, really disturbing, with totally gorgeous imagery. Max Protech has a nice show of abstract paintings by Thomas Nozkowski, nearly recognizable abstractions that bring to mind cityscapes, constellations, and Emily Wilson’s work, which really should be shown here. Sonnabend has a show up documenting collaborative work by Le Corbusier and Pierre Jeanneret made in India in the early 50’s, beautifully displayed furniture and architectural photographs. We bumped into Chuck Close, who didn’t say hi (he looks so little in person!), at Pace-Wildenstein, where Tara Donovan has a fabulous installation on display, of hundreds of thousands of stacked translucent plastic cups, laid out in a rectangle appx. 50′ x 60′ x 5′ high, and creating a magical topographical recyclable polar landscape. Tom Sanford has a show up at Leo Koenig which seemed hyped beyond anything I could make of it. His ambivalence to culture seems reflected in his ambivalence to paint and imagery. We ended our two-street Chelea gallery outing with a show of Basquiat “Heads” at Van de Weghe, which BC didn’t really like, but Basquiat’s spontaneity and convoluted narratives always draw me in. There are also some cool Marilyn Mintner photos on billboards throughout Chelsea, very effective venues for her glamourous grime scene investigations. More a-gallerying next week.

Munch-y

BC and I just got back from MoMA, and the Edvard Munch retrospective. I started blubbering in front of the “Madonna,” and actually cried in front of the “Kiss.” I’ve only seen his print of the “Madonna” with the sperm and the fetus, but this version, beside being so magnificently painted, was just of the woman, and utterly sexualized and sensually rendered. “The Kiss” is just the story of my romantic life, tumbling into another and losing oneself. The show is a humdinger of an exhibition, laid out chronologically. You first encounter Munch’s work from his 20’s, seeing him mimic the styles of his contemporaries and gradually developing his own vision, and then you turn a corner and BOOM, The Frieze of Life, his series of works on the themes of love, anxiety, and death, his vision and style now very much his own. There’s so much narrative and color and expression, as well as draftsmanship and painterliness–and so much feeling.

Frick-y

Today we visited the Frick Collection. It’s a smallish museum, with an intensity of masterpieces sited in an opulent gilded age setting, the paintings surrounded by 18th century furniture, sevres porcelain, and small bronzes. There aren’t just three Vermeers, there are three beautiful Vermeers, and not just a Bellini, but of St. Francis basking in a heavenly light that bathes all the marvelous details in a warm glow, as well as a touching late Rembrandt self-portait, a Renoir tucked at the base of the stairway around the corner from a Bronzino portrait and a Degas, and Holbein’s tour-de-force portrait of Sir Thomas More next to El Greco’s “St Jerome.” The paintings are not arranged according to subject matter or period, but set in relation to each other and their surroundings. In the larger gallery are four portraits by Whistler, one in each corner of the room, and each a “symphony” on the theme of a single color or two. I find myself drawn more these days to Whistler, whose paintings are like cake frosting, a lushness poised to melt into abstraction. The Gainsboroughs are thrilling for their subject matter and arch artificiality, but I’m not very interested in the paint. Unlike the late Goyas on display downstairs, which are painted in broad powerful strokes. Several portraits directly prophesize the coming of Manet.

This and That

One week has gone by since arriving in New York, and it seems that a few years have trickled by in our little apartment on the Hudson–so much in such a short span of time. BC and I had a really bumpy ride last week, with a lot of post-breakup stress and anger burbling to the surface and splashing all over us. The great thing about being here together is that we can’t avoid dealing with the things that we’ve so skillfully avoided since first meeting. The drama has mostly subsided, and it’s been at least three days since I last told him that he needed to fly back to San Francisco.

We met up with the ever-charming Joey on Friday to check out the Armory Fair. It was exhausting, but fun, and dishing with Joey made it even funner. I discovered Michael Van Ofen (below) at the Sies+Höke booth. He paints in very broad minimal strokes to create portraits and landscapes with much visual depth, vigorously luminous surfaces, and emotion. Barry McGee’s installation at Deitch was just a knockout–yaay for that Frisco kid!

Joey took us out the next night to the gayest Italian restaurant that I’ve ever been to, with a dj and everything. BC dressed appropriately in his new pink Izod sweater. Tagging along were Joey’s cutie-pie husband, Mr. Bear, and their smolderingly hot buddy, Cubby. I had the Gnocchi Shenequa, which one must order by saying, “I’ll have the Gnocchi Shenequa, girl!”

Dodie Bellamy and Kevin Killian, fellow San Franciscans, had an interesting show at White Columns that ended Saturday, introducing New York to their lives and work, with samples of their ‘zine and art from their collection. I still haven’t done the Chelsea galleries, so that report will come soon–there’s an awful lot to see. This week’s list includes the Munch show at MoMA, the Goya show at the Frick, and the Whitney Biennial.

We spent one day with my old San Francisco buddy, Michelle, in her new digs in Jersey, visiting her horse and bonding with her dogs. She showed us a fabulous scrap book that she recently found in a flea market, of clippings from newspapers and magazine from the 30’s. We were mesmerized by what amounted to a porn collection of the time–images of bathing beauties, and legs, legs, legs! She’s recently completed a new art work in bronze, a sculpture of a bunny in an impossibly tight corset. All of Michelle’s work is beautiful and well-crafted and conceptually rich, queasy fetishistic objects and images for big bad kids. Dana, her husband, has the most complicated train set that I’ve ever seen. It’s half completed and fills a quarter of their garage. He has a mini-elevator with several levels of track, to add or take away trains. Each train is individually controlled and programmable to travel different routes, all trackable on a laptop. He and BC bonded over their mutual obsessiveness, while Michelle and I slipped outside to mentally landscape her yard.

Up and Over

We took the A train yesterday, or was it Tuesday(?), up to the Cloisters, which we decided would be best visited in the spring or summer, as the gardens were all shriveled up and without plantings of winter interest. The structure itself is worth the 100 stops on the A train, combining plundered medieval French monastic architecture into a fabulous and dramatic setting. The tapestries are pretty fabulous, too. But also pretty gruesome. That poor unicorn. My favorite things in the museum are the wavy columns in the 12th century Saint-Guilhem Cloister.

Today we hopped back onto the A train and over to Brooklyn to the Transportation Museum. We’re both interested in Victorian technology and the amazing feats of late 19th century engineering, but were a bit discouraged that the displays seemed geared towards 2nd graders. On the lower level, in a now defunct subway station, the museum houses trains dating back to the early 20th century, which we got to actually play on! And there are still bathrooms in the station, adding a touch of nostalgia and convenience to the experience.

BC and I are doing great. He’s chatting away with his new little dude on one of those bear_ _ _.com sites as I type away up here. click click click click, his stubby fingers are chatting up a silent storm but a few feet away. This is such a great segue into bachelorhood, being single together.

Twilight time in New York for the Chrissies

Meanwhile, back to the breakup: Chrissy and I today concluded that the decision to break up is the best thing for both of us, and that we can best support each other now as friends. A sigh of relief the size of an atomic blast shook the eastern seaboard. And then we had sex. Breakup sex is great when you know it’s breakup sex. Now we have two and a half more weeks together in close proximity to hunker down and resolve the conflicts that have been barriers to our relationship as lovers, and clear the path to a solid friendship.

New York: Day 2

Lilly needed a bit more time last night to prepare her apartment for her housesitters, so we ended up watching the Oscars in our hotel room with some fabulous steamed dumplings and a salad from the local Dumpling-eria, and a velvety Bordeaux. I’m still rattled by Lauren Bacall’s fractured delivery of that bizarre tribute to film noir. ? This morning at the diner there was a Power-Breakfast going on at the next table. A man and a woman, both dressed in black, placed an electric candle on their table that changed colors as they slipped phrases like, “She can’t wear that dress again, she’s already worn it twice,” and “Run with it, darling.”

We spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon with Lilly, walking around the Village and noshing before putting her on the plane to China and settling into the Lilly-Pad. Lilly lives in a community of artists housed in a former Bell Labs building, remodeled by Richard Meier in the 1970’s. The ceiling of her apartment is like rippling waves, echoing the flow of the Hudson just outside the window.

We had a very easy day, just stocking the fridge, finding the wi-fi hotspots in the apartment, and getting caught up with nothing in particular.

Tomorrow it’s up to the Cloisters.